Richard; have you actually been out of the house, with your instrument, to a session ? If you aren’t a member of The Session yet, you can sign up now. Thanks again, to everyone for your help. The truss rod (a metal rod running from headstock to heel inside the neck) helps to counteract the forward pull of the strings on the neck and provides a means of adjusting neck relief. Is there any way i can get the best advice on mandolin neck adjustments? A little more nut height or a slight bit of relief makes things sound cleaner, if that is a problem. There should be about 0.005” of space between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret. Thinking’s bad for this game……. #Besides getting a thorough education on neck relief, in general, I am convinced beyond any doubt that this mandolin is bowed. I like as little relief as possible in all my instruments - guitar, mandolin, etc. https://thesession.org/discussions/31336 Then give back my reactions. As a begginer you be playing mostly on the first few frets, where a change in action height at the bridge end has very little effect, but changing the nut height by even 1/10mm has a profound affect. For any action above what would be considered medium/low a mandolin doesn't need any relief. There needs to be a VERY slight forward bow to give the strings clearance to vibrate without rattling on the frets. ... more Worth every penny asked for in the BIN but I will consider reasonably close offers. I tried his guitar while we were setting up, and found I could play it, but not do the hot flatpicking that I was sure would thrill the crowd (if I didn't screw up). String tension and changes in humidity levels can affect the neck relief (bow) causing a change in string height and intonation. https://thesession.org/discussions/31368 Really old Kay Mandolin in rough shape. https://thesession.org/discussions/31339 Negligible playing time on this one. Not wanting to bring my guitar for one song, I thought I would borrow our guitar player's spare (he breaks strings a lot). This is an odd situation. You can approximate by fretting at the 1st and 14th and looking at the gap between the top of the 7th fret and the bottom of the G string. It is a somewhat effective and touchy method of controlling the relief in the fingerboard. Almost all guitars require some relief but the same is not true for mandolins. https://reverb.com/news/7-tips-for-the-perfect-mandolin-setup String tension and changes in humidity levels can affect the neck relief (bow) causing a change in string height and intonation. If you are just trying it, you can just mention it's not set up quite the way you like it, just to get his reaction. Vintage Kay Mandolin Project Body Neck. I can't very well judge much about this one with what is, to me, an obvious neck problem. If you want to know where the nut is to adjust the truss rod, it’s under the little triangular plate behind the nut. Each fingerboard is supplied unprofiled (rectangular); you can simply cut it shorter to fit an A-style mandolin. If too little relief, the truss rod can be slackened (usually by 1/8 or 1/4 turn anti-clockwise) to allow string tension to pull the neck slightly into more of a bow. Benefits of Good Action In both cases I could adjust the truss rod; I don't know what you do if there isn't one. https://thesession.org/discussions/31367 As Keith says above, setting neck relief is only the first step in adjusting the playing action. The other thing that a little relief helps with is sympathetic vibrations between the fretted note and the nut. Loose seams and sagging tops may also change the action on a mandolin. In other words the string needs slightly more room in the middle than at the ends. No replies. The relief was just like he liked it - and he's a fine rhythm player - but not for me. I have a fairly light touch, and really like a straight neck. The mandolin in question here sounds like it should have the neck reinforced, and that is a pretty involved job at this point. You’ve been told (several times over) how to set up your mandolin: Both neck angle and relief will increase due to constant strong pull from the string. Or use a pick thkness (usally in mm) to estimate. Re: Mandolin Neck or bridge? I know that a straightedge sitting on the frets of a straight steel string guitar neck commonly just clears the top of a correctly sized bridge blank. The best advice I could give you is don’t do anything you can’t undo, and don’t undo anything you can’t redo. To check for proper neck relief, push down on the low string at the 1st and last frets simultaneously. https://thesession.org/discussions/31522 Keith. Use the A string to determine relief 12th fret action- .050" G, .040 high e. Nut slot height is critical on a mandolin. But if you don’t know where it is, best leave it alone. Neck relief is only used to compensate for the slight parabolic space that a string needs to vibrate in. Wondering about neck angle projection over the top. For a mandolin, half that amount of relief would be enough. This instrument was offered to me, as a trial, just to try out. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. If the neck has come away from the body then it is often useful to add a screw or a dowel to take some of the tension, especially if the instrument has no truss rod. You can now judge (or measure) the gap between the bottom of the string and the fret halfway between the two. Structural Problems. Loose seams and sagging tops may also change the action on a mandolin. However - Dave Harvey of Gibson showed just how flat a mandolin neck can be. Do you have the correct neck relief? Hmmm. When trying an instrument in a shop, I have asked for adjustments - only if I am sure I will buy it if it is set up to my liking. The lighter your touch, the less "relief" you will need. All templates are cut on a laser machine and are cut within 20 thousands of an inch of tolerance. Tension should be removed to avoid further damage and possible warping of the panel. I wouldn't ask a dealer or maker to change something I wasn't planning to buy. Available with traditional flat playing surface, or with modern compound radius surface for lower string action. You may want a larger or smaller amount of relief depending on your playing style. Ok, what’s this ‘neck relief’ and ‘truss rod’ i’m hearing that everyone’s talking about? If too little relief, the truss rod can be slackened (usually by 1/8 or 1/4 turn anti-clockwise) to allow string tension to pull the neck slightly into more of a bow. I have used carbon fiber with success(so far). Under full string tension, adjust the rod ¼ turn at a time, check the neck as you go. Session tomorrow night too. Hurting your fingers is much more likely to be a problem with the nut than the bridge. Almost all guitars require some relief but the same is not true for mandolins. #. The former was dude to deformation of the soundboard; the latter was because the neck surrendered a bit under string tension. Bruce Weber told me that they send them out from the shop with 'flat' fingerboards, as the scale length is so short that the neck doesn't really require any relief as such.

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